SPRING TIME

ITíS GETTING SERIOUS Ė THE VCíS OUT OF ACTION FOR NOW, PROPPED UP ON STANDS, SANS SUSPENSION

WORDS & PHOTOS DAVE MORLEY

OUR SHED, OUR CARS, OUR STORIES

ITíS GETTING SERIOUS Ė THE VCíS OUT OF ACTION FOR NOW, PROPPED UP ON STANDS, SANS SUSPENSION

THE CARS

THIS MONTH

í76 BMW 633

Owned since 2014 Miles 134,251

í90 MK2 GOLF GTI

Owned since 2015 Kms 151,645

í66 SHELBY GT350

Owned since 1996 Miles 55,085 O d i

í79 KINGSWOOD

Owned since 1982 Kms 361,491 O d i

í80 HOLDEN VC SL

Owned since 2016 Kms unknown O d i

í65 SUNBEAM TIGER

Owned since 2014 Miles 34,156

í76 VW BEETLE

Owned since 2006 Kms 7,252 O d i

í79 RS2000

Owned since 2012 Kms 139,083 THE PLAN was always for Project Duckshit to have more handling than it had power. Given the standard 202 that weíll be using first up, it probably should be able to achieve that with three wheels. But even once we get further down the road and fit a built engine, I still want the car to be about going around corners rather than simply rushing up to them.

So the suspension needs a big re-think. Not that thereís anything fundamentally wrong with the basic earlygirl Commodore. In fact, the VB was considered a bit of a handling revolution when it was launched in 1978, what with that newfangled rack-and-pinion steering and all. But 40 years of engine oil, road grime and being thumped over Australian roads meant that the stuff under my VC was a bit tired.

Not completely stuffed, but not in the first flush of youth, either.

And even if the suspension was in perfect nick, itíd still be too squishy for what I have in mind. So I started by ripping it all out. That included removing the lower front control arms, front MacPherson struts, Z-bars (castor-bars to an engineer) and the upper and lower rear control arms on the live rear axle. The reason for doing that is not to clean them and paint them all shiny (ícos I didnít), but to replace all the bushes and ball-joints and anything else that can wear out or become floppy with time and kilometres.

When it comes to road cars, Iím pretty partial to fitting those purple SuperPro bushes that are made somewhere in Queensland. Stiffer than the original rubber bushes, they firm things up nicely but still have enough compliance that the ride quality isnít destroyed. And not being made of rubber, they wonít deteriorate if oil somehow gets splattered all over them (heaven forbid). For a racecar, of course, ride quality is of no importance, so instead of the purple bushes, I went for the red Nolathane ones that are much harder and really firm things up, allowing the suspension, and not the bushing, to do the work.

Replacing the bushes isnít too difficult provided you

have access to a hydraulic press, although the rear-lower bushes are pressed into the rear axle housing, not the suspension arm, so (short of putting the whole car in a press) you need to make up a puller and wind the old ones out and the new ones in.

A rattle-gun is your friend.

But be careful and use your scone; youíll be putting these under bulk tension, so if youíre not sure about it, get a grown-up to help.

The other bushes need to be pressed out of the suspension arm and the new bushes pressed in. But thereís a trick to this on these Holdens (and many other cars). The secret is to use a little spacer (I use a section of old exhaust tube cut to the right length) to stop the two halves of the arm collapsing in on themselves when you get serious with the press. If you donít, youíll often find you distort the eyes (or bosses or whatever theyíre really called) and stretch them.

When that occurs, what happened to me will happen to you: I pressed the new bush into the left-hand-side lower-front control-arm and all was well. But when I did the same to the right-hand one and tried to wiggle it back into place on the car, the bush promptly fell out. The eyes were distorted and wouldnít grip the bush, which is an interference fit. The solution?

Hit the wrecking yards and find a replacement arm with nice, straight bosses, rather than horrible, bent ones.

Twenty-five bucks to you, Sir.

Now, while the suspension was apart, I got to be a bit creative. Looking at the lower-rear arm, itís a big, tin pressing. The other arms are smaller, but these rear-lowers are monsters and look like they could flex in the heat of battle. And, just like stiffer bushes, having suspension members that donít flex and flop about allows the actual suspension to do its job better. Youíd never notice this in a road car at road-car speeds, Iím sure. But Project Duckshit? I need all the help I can get. So I dragged out some 2mm plate steel and cut a pair of gussets that fit just inside the lower arm. By welding these plates in, Iíve effectively boxed the arms.

Itís an old trick favoured by hot-rodders who used to box in the original C-section chassis rails in their Model As and radically increase the torsional strength (handy when youíre cramming those rails full of big-block V8).

The front ball-joints were next; not that they were shot, but theyíre cheap to buy and give you a little peace of mind.

Mind you, my 20-tonne press was straining pretty hard to remove the old ones and press the new ones in. Again, if you donít know what youíre doing with equipment like this, find somebody who does.

Next up, itíll be time to reinstall everything including new springs, dampers, adjustable strut tops (itís a race-car after all) and a dirty big pair of sway bars. This thing wonít be plush to ride in, but it should really go round corners. Hopefully not backwards and/or on fire.

ďITíS AN OLD TRICK FAVOURED BY HOT-RODDERSĒ